Umbria / Ombrie / Umbrien

Assisi is located on a steep slope (accessible via escalators) and a site of many a pilgrimage. Even in winter it can be very crowded - and a day before, we had to turn back, as all parking lots in the valley below were full. A day later, in heavy rain, we tried it again - and were in luck. The erection of the "Basilica di San Francesco" begun in 1228. It comprises two churches known as the "Upper Church" and the "Lower Church". Below that is the crypt with the tomb of Saint Francis of Assisi. This is where all tourists and pilgrims meet together. Even the cloister was crowded.

Bevagna, known since Etruscian times and part of the Papal States from 778 on, was burnt down by Barbarossa´s troop in 1152, but was even then strong enough, to have two churches built in the center of town end of the 12th century. San Michele, seen here, is one of them.

Bevagna, known since Etruscian times and part of the Papal States from 778 on, was burnt down by Barbarossa´s troop in 1152, but was even then economically strong enough, to have two churches built in the center of town end of the 12th century. San Michele is one of them. Here is San Michele´s portal, that has some interesting details. Carved onto the wooden (not medieval) door are three ornate bull-skulls. The sides are re-used Roman carvings, "christianized" with two crosiers. There are two very rough graffiti - and a signature. This church was designed by sculptors and architects Rodolfo and Binello, who as well created the side portal of the cathedral in Foligno, just 10kms east.

Bevagna, known since Etruscian times and part of the Papal States from 778 on, was burnt down by Barbarossa´s troop in 1152, but was even then economically strong enough, to have two churches built in the center of town end of the 12th century. San Michele is one of them. San Michele´s portal has some interesting details. Below the sculpture of San Michele spearing the dragon is the signature of the architects, who as well created the side portal of the cathedral in Foligno. "Rodulfus x Binellu(s) fecer(unt) hec opera xps benedicat ilos senper et Michael custodiat" What translates to "Rodulfus [and] Binellus did these works; may Christ bless them always and may Michael protect them”.

Bevagna, known since Etruscian times and part of the Papal States from 778 on, was burnt down by Barbarossa´s troop in 1152, but was even then economically strong enough, to have two churches built in the center of town end of the 12th century. San Michele is one of them. San Michele´s portal has some interesting details. Below the sculpture of San Michele spearing the dragon and the "signature" of the two architects is this bird. Actually there are even two birds, one on either side. The bird is so poorly carved, that the bird can only be a graffito. But to carve that is pretty timeconsuming - and when was it possible, to carve that, without anybody stepping in towards the vandal?

Bevagna, known since Etruscian times and part of the Papal States from 778 on, was burnt down by Barbarossa´s troop in 1152, but was even then economically strong enough, to have three churches built in the center of town end of the 12th century. San Michele is one of them. The interior of San Michele is sober and clearly Romanesque. I learned, that this is the result of a reconstruction as it had been Baroque for about two centuries. Below the choir is this crypt.

Bevagna, known since Etruscian times and part of the Papal States from 778 on, was burnt down by Barbarossa´s troop in 1152, but was even then economically strong enough, to have three churches built in the center of town end of the 12th century. One of them is San Silvestro, located opposite of San Michele on the Piazza F. Silvestri. It was erected in 1195 as well by the architects Rodolfo and Binello. The façade is somehow incomplete. The large building to the left ist the Palazzo dei Consoli (1270).

Bevagna, known since Etruscian times and part of the Papal States from 778 on, was burnt down by Barbarossa´s troop in 1152, but was even then economically strong enough, to have three churches built in the center of town end of the 12th century. One of them is San Silvestro, located opposite of San Michele on the Piazza F. Silvestri. It was erected in 1195 as well by the architects Rodolfo and Binello. The portal is - compared to San Silvestro´s - humble, but has as well a "signature" (left).

Bevagna, known since Etruscian times and part of the Papal States from 778 on, was burnt down by Barbarossa´s troop in 1152, but was even then economically strong enough, to have three churches built in the center of town end of the 12th century. One of them is San Silvestro, located opposite of San Michele on the Piazza F. Silvestri. It was erected in 1195 as well by the architects Rodolfo and Binello. The portal is - compared to San Silvestro´s - humble, but has as well a "signature" seen here.

Bevagna, known since Etruscian times and part of the Papal States from 778 on, was burnt down by Barbarossa´s troop in 1152, but was even then economically strong enough, to have three churches built in the center of town end of the 12th century. One of them is San Silvestro, located opposite of San Michele on the Piazza F. Silvestri. It was erected in 1195 as well by the architects Rodolfo and Binello. The interior is clear and sober Romanesque. The choir is risen.

Bevagna, known since Etruscian times and part of the Papal States from 778 on, was burnt down by Barbarossa´s troop in 1152, but was even then economically strong enough, to have three churches built in the center of town end of the 12th century. One of them is San Silvestro, located opposite of San Michele on the Piazza F. Silvestri. It was erected in 1195 as well by the architects Rodolfo and Binello. The interior is sober Romanesque. The choir is risen. Below the choir is a large crypt. It was pretty dark - and I could not find the light switch. I could not look any longer for the switch, as the person with the key had arrived. He made very clear, that he wanted to lock the door. Now.

La Bruna, where the Santuario della Madonna is located, is part of Castel Ritaldi. Legends tell, that in 1506 this was the place of a miracle, and so some decades later this church was erected. It is a single nave with three apses, a grand grandchild of the many "clover-leaf-structures" built in medieval times (eg Germigny-des-Prés, La Baume-de-Transit, Montmajour).

Bruna, where the Santuario della Madonna is located, is part of Castel Ritaldi. Legends tell, that in 1506 this was the place of a miracle, and so some decades later this church was erected. It is a single nave with three apses, a grand grandchild of the many "clover-leaf-structures" built in medieval times (eg Germigny-des-Prés, La Baume-de-Transit, Montmajour).

The self-service laundry is open from 07.00 to 22.00, but even at night time it is protected by Pope Francis, whose poster is attached to the wall.

The striped facade of San Gregorio, located outside a hamlet, that meanwhile is part of Castel Ritaldi, is decorated with some extraordinary carvings. The church at some time was too small for the pious population, so it got enlarged by a rough attachment. Unfortunately the church was locked.

San Gregorio, located outside a hamlet, that meanwhile is part of Castel Ritaldi, is decorated with some extraordinary carvings. Here are the archivolts over the main door. Carved in in the outer archivolt is "AN.ML.C.XLI" = 1141. Entangling vines connect a cosmos of animals (lions, birds, a boar, a dog, a hare), mythical creatures (griffons), centered around a seraphim. There is even Samson on the left - and a "floater" on the smaller archivolt.

San Gregorio, located outside a hamlet, that meanwhile is part of Castel Ritaldi, is decorated with some extraordinary carvings. Seen here is the upper part of the facade. Most interesting are the figures and the demons, as there are inscriptions below. On the very left is "IRREMIAS" next to the head of the demon "PAMEA". The (teethless) deamon to the right is named "GENOFALUS INFERUS", next to him is "GESECHIEL P"(rophet= ?).

San Gregorio, located outside a hamlet, that meanwhile is part of Castel Ritaldi, is decorated with some extraordinary carvings. Seen here is a detail of the upper part of the facade. For am overview see the previous uploads. "IRREMIAS", leaning on a very elastic, fruit bearing tree and next to the head of the demon "PAMEA", who displays pretty threatening front teeth.