Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur

Èze-Boad de Mer, is at the end of the "Sentier de Nietzsche", that starts at Èze Village, 430m higher. This little spot even has a train-station, as the railroad line from Nice to Monaco follows the coastline. I learned from the Tourist Office that this village was the center of a russian colony escaping from the 1917 revolution. Even members of the Stroganov-family lived here. The large bay is named "Golfe de St-Hospice", Beaulieu-sur-Mer is to the right. Nice is behind Cap Ferrat on the horizon.

With little more than 2km² Monaco is the second-smallest independent state worldwide. Only the Vatican is smaller. In population density Monaco finishes second with a population of around 33.000. Here Macau leads the statistic. I could not find any statistic on horsepower per m². The density of Porsches, Bugattis and Ferraris is extraordenary high. The owners of these cars live here, as Monaco is a tax haven. Income- and inheritance-tax for individuals are just unknown. The number of "tax refugee" residents, who would like to live in Monaco, is growing. As more millionaires need more flats, tower cranes are just everywhere (four on this shot). Thanks to reinforced concrete high-rise blocks of flats are possible even on the very steep slopes. Thanks to reclaiming area from the sea Monaco is even growing. The Principality of Monaco is not very friendly to pedestrians, as sidewalks just need to much space. To reach sea-level I had to use four different elevators. Here to be seen in Monaco-ville, the old, fortified town on the rock and the administrative area. The House of Grimaldi has a palace there (started as a castle 1297). Prince of Monaco and Head of state is Albert II. On the right is the Saint Nicholas Cathedral, built end of the 19th century. On the left a small part of the large yacht-harbour, just behind the big wheel. Actually to reside in Monaco was popular already more than 100 years ago. Emma Forsayth-Coe (aka "Queen Emma"), born in Samoa bought an appartment here, after having sold all her assets in what is now Papua New Guinea. She died after a colourful life in Monaco in 1913. But yes, that is a different story..

On the way to Vence the bus stopped in St. Paul and I had a nice view over the autumnly valley up to the white Maritime Alps behind. Turning right I could see the blue Mediterranian sea. From Denis´ photos, I had the impression that the opening hours of the "Chapelle du Rosaire" I wanted to visit in Vence, were a bit unusual. So I was here very early that day.

Though I was early that day, I was too late. About three weeks too late. The "Chapelle du Rosaire" was closed. - I learned from the paper, pasted onto the locked door: "Fermeture annuelle 15.11. - 20.12." So I could only see the building from the sidewalk of the "Avenue Henri Matisse". This chapel was regarded by Matisse himself as his "masterpiece. It is a very complex work of art and has a wonderful background. Many of the artists around Matisse (e.g. Picasso) did not like what Matisse was doing here. Matisse started this "project" at the age of 77 - and spent more than 4 years. Please follow the whole story of the chapel on Wikipedia: english en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chapelle_du_Rosaire_de_Vence french fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chapelle_du_Rosaire_de_Vence german de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chapelle_du_Rosaire_de_Vence Here are the opening hours: maison.lacordaire.pagesperso-orange.fr/index02.htm

Though I was early that day, I was too late. About three weeks too late. The "Chapelle du Rosaire" was closed. I learned from the paper, pasted onto the locked door: "Fermeture annuelle 15.11. - 20.12." So I could only see the building from the sidewalk of the street, what leaning over the fence, produces "slanted" photos like this one. This chapel was regarded by Matisse himself as his "masterpiece. It is a very complex work of art and has a wonderful background. Many of the artists around Matisse (e.g. Picasso) did not like what Matisse was doing here. Matisse started this "project" at the age of 77 - and spent more than 4 years. Please follow the whole story of the chapel on Wikipedia: english en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chapelle_du_Rosaire_de_Vence french fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chapelle_du_Rosaire_de_Vence german de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chapelle_du_Rosaire_de_Vence Here are the opening hours: maison.lacordaire.pagesperso-orange.fr/index02.htm

Though I was early that day, I was too late. About three weeks too late. The "Chapelle du Rosaire" was closed. I learned from the paper, pasted onto the locked door: "Fermeture annuelle 15.11. - 20.12." So I could only see the building from the sidewalk of the street. The window (behind the altar) as seen from outside. This chapel was regarded by Matisse himself as his "masterpiece. It is a very complex work of art and has a wonderful background. Many of the artists around Matisse (e.g. Picasso) did not like what Matisse was doing here. Matisse started this "project" at the age of 77 - and spent more than 4 years. Please follow the whole story of the chapel on Wikipedia: english en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chapelle_du_Rosaire_de_Vence french fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chapelle_du_Rosaire_de_Vence german de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chapelle_du_Rosaire_de_Vence Here are the opening hours: maison.lacordaire.pagesperso-orange.fr/index02.htm

As I was not able to see the interior of the "Chapelle du Rosaire" in Vence (you may remember it was "Fermeture Anuelle") I returned to the Matisse Museum, as I had seen a model here. I wanted to see the model and the sketches of that chapel again, as the "Chapelle du Rosaire" was regarded by Matisse himself as his "masterpiece. It was not only his "major work", but as well his last complex one. So here is the model, that was used. I am not sure, wether it was legal to take and upload this photo. I do respect the copyrighht of course. In case the model is protected - and will immidiately delete the photo, if there is a copyright-holder, who.. Homepage of the museum: www.musee-matisse-nice.org/ Homepage of the chapel: maison.lacordaire.pagesperso-orange.fr/index02.htm Here the photo of the chapel in Vence: www.flickr.com/photos/martin-m-miles/556063445/

Behind the market stalls on the "Place Clemenceau" towers the "Tour Saint-Lambert" that was built (much higher) next to the cathedral within the 12th century.Now the tower is part of the cathedral of Vence, that was a bishopric seat, upto 1801. Saint Lambert was bishop here 1114 -1154 - and so named the tower. Since 1879 the main entrance of the cathedral is on the right, just below the baroque Madonna. At least parts of the cathedral date back to early merovingian times. The first church, built over the foundation of a roman temple, was probably destroyed by the Lombards. It was rebuilt, damaged, destroyed many times over the century - and by now is mixture of different styles from carolingian to late baroque.

Standing on the place, that was the cemetery upto 1780, seeing the cathedral of Vence from the east. Now, the romanesque structure of the cathedral is obvious. The tower was, when it was constructed 12th/13th century not connected to the church structure. The "Tour de Lambert" to the west of the cathedral looked probably very similar, before it underwent a couple of "renovations". There is a grey basalt column in the center of the square, that is even older than the cathedral. It is one of two columns, given to the Mars-temple in Vintium (Vence) by people from Massalia (Marseille) in 230 aC. The second column exists as well - on another square in Vence. Here is the nothern side of the square: www.flickr.com/photos/martin-m-miles/5571990931/

Inside the Cathédrale de la Nativité-de-Marie, the Cathedral of Vence, bishopric seat upto 1801. Originally, dating back to the 11th/12th century, this was a basilica-style church, having one nave and two aisles. Probably only the pillars are still from that time, as the structure is renovated, changed and enlarged many times. Built in the pillars are some brownish reliefs. These stone carvings are from the carolingian church, that was here before the romanesque was built. Denis has a nice photo of one of these carvings: www.flickr.com/photos/89235234@N00/5041059868/

The most colourful and surprising item inside the rather bleak Cathedral of Vence is this mosaic behind the baptismal font. It was created by russo-french artist Marc Chagall, who lived in nearby St.- Paul de Vence. Worldfamous Chagall has created many stained windows (Metz, Reims, Mainz, Chichester..) of which the most are very dark blue - in opposite to this light coloured scene, depicting Moses in a small craft of bulrushes, being rescued from the Nile. Maybe this was saying Chagall´s way of saying "Merci beaucoup" to Vence after he was awarded the honorary citizenship of the town.

Saint-Paul-de-Vence, a village with a population of about 3500, is just a walk away from Vence. St. Paul still has a medieval structure, fortified within the 16th century. The ramparts are still extant, but the character of the village has changed greatly over the decades. Marc Chagall has lived here, as well as American author James Baldwin and many French actors (Simone Signoret, Yves Montand, Lino Ventura). This is still a hotspot for celebrities and wikipedia told me, that "property prices (...) have been stable during the last recession (...) Purchase prices of medium size villa in a good location would cost between €2 and €5 million." To buy a baguette here could be difficult, to buy a contemporary work of art will be easy, as art-galleries outnumber bakeries clearly (I just saw one bakery!). First came the artists - followed by the galleries. The official website of St. Paul lists more than 60 ateliers and galleries. I had the impression, that the number is higher. Taking a walk through Saint Paul, you will not see many cars. What is no wonder, as the streets are just very narrow.

I took a photo here already, as this is just east of the "Cathedral of Vence", have a look: www.flickr.com/photos/martin-m-miles/5569508742/ This is the northern side of the former cemetry. In the center stands the grey basalt column, that was given to the Mars-temple of Vintium (Vence) from the population of Massalia (Marseille) in 230 aC. The residential building behind is from the 13th century. The arcade-window is not a fake. There are about 1000 years of history between the roman column and the romanesque house.

Saint-Paul-de-Vence, a village with a population of about 3500, is just a walk away from Vence. St. Paul still has a medieval structure, fortified within the 16th century. The ramparts are still extant, but the character of the village has changed greatly over the decades. Marc Chagall has lived here, as well as American author James Baldwin and many French actors (Simone Signoret, Yves Montand, Lino Ventura). Saint-Paul-de-Vence is still a hotspot for celebrities and wikipedia told me, that "property prices (...) have been stable during the last recession (...) Purchase prices of medium size villa in a good location would cost between €2 and €5 million." To buy a baguette here could be difficult, to buy a contemporary work of art will be easy, as art-galleries outnumber bakeries clearly (I just saw one bakery!). First came the artists - followed by the galleries. The official website of St. Paul lists more than 60 ateliers and galleries. I had the impression, that the number is higher. Marguerite and Aimé Maeght owned a very important gallery for contemporary art in Cannes (1936) and another one in Paris (1946) came to St. Paul to meet their artists. In 1964 they founded a museum of modern art here. Situated in a pine forest the "Fondation Maeght" attracts more than 200.000 visitors per year. www.maeght.com/

Saint-Paul-de-Vence, a village with a population of about 3500, is just a walk away from Vence. St. Paul still has a medieval structure, fortified within the 16th century. The ramparts are still extant, but the character of the village has changed greatly over the decades. Marc Chagall has lived here, as well as American author James Baldwin and many French actors (Simone Signoret, Yves Montand, Lino Ventura). This is still a hotspot for celebrities and wikipedia told me, that "property prices (...) have been stable during the last recession (...) Purchase prices of medium size villa in a good location would cost between €2 and €5 million." To buy a baguette here could be difficult, to buy a contemporary work of art will be easy, as art-galleries outnumber bakeries clearly (I just saw one bakery!). First came the artists - followed by the galleries. The official website of St. Paul lists more than 60 ateliers and galleries. I had the impression, that the number is higher. Standing on the ramparts, looking south. The mediterranean sea is behind the hills on the horizont. Marc Chagall and James Baldwin are buried on the little graveyard on the right.

The old town of Vence on the hill to the right. The foothills of the Maritime Alps to the left. Nice in the distant. Brilliant weather - for December! The old town is still a medieval walled village. The church tower belongs to the old Vence Cathedral, the formerly the seat of the Bishopric of Vence, that existed from 374 (!) to 1801. Vence, only about 10 kms inland from the Mediterranian Sea, has been a very favourable spot for (tourists and) artists since the early 20th. century. Matisse, Dufy, Dubuffet, Chagall, just to name a few, have lived and worked here, as well as the authors D. H. Lawrence and R. Schickele.

The small church of Saint-Pantaléon is about 5kms south of Gordes. It was built within the 11th century, altered a hundred years later. More chapels were added over the centuries. There is a legend around this church. The bodies of children, that had died, before being baptised, were brought here, as St. Pantaléon (patron saints for physicians)was able, to "revitalize" for a short time, to get baptized, before they were buried next to the church. There is not only the modern times graveyard, seen here, on the other side are lots of tombs, carved into the ground. Many of them are very small.

The church of Saint-Pantaléon is about 5kms south of Gordes. It was built within the 11th century, altered a hundred years later. More chapels were added over the centuries. There is a legend around this church. The bodies of children, that had died, before being baptised, were brought to this chapel, as St. Pantaléon (patron saint for physicians) was able, to "revitalize" the kids for a short time, to get baptized, before they were buried next to the church. There is not only the modern times graveyard, seen here, on the other side are lots of tombs, carved into the ground. Many of them are very small.