shaft of light Morfa Bychan castle headland castle above Criccieth Castle Llwyn Peninsula high walls sky rat across the waves the harbour the valley below Criccieth Dduallt guest houses Porthmadog Marina downhill Update fire days end sails serene nightfall boat trip Portmeirion Portmeirion Portmeirion Portmeirion Portmeirion Portmeirion Portmeirion Portmeirion Portmeirion Portmeirion Portmeirion Portmeirion Portmeirion Portmeirion Portmeirion Portmeirion Portmeirion Portmeirion Portmeirion Portmeirion Portmeirion Portmeirion