Medieval Murals

The "Abbazia di Santa Maria di Valdiponte" ("Abbey of Montelabate") dates back to the 9th century. In 969 a Papal Bull ordered the Abbott Pietro to restore the monastery and to start there a new Benedictine convent. Located between Perugia and Gubbio the abbey, that belonged to the Cluniac network within the 12th century, prospered over centuries, but declined from mid 16th century on, after it had become a "commanderie". The commandatory abbot recieved the abbey from the pope as a benefice and without taking up residence was entitle to the revenues of the abbey. In 1602 the abbey became the center of a large agricultural holding, before in 1749 it came into the possesion of Cistercian monks. The Abbey suffered strongly during the Napoleonic times. After the Risorgimento it became property of the State. The huge archive was transferred to public libraries, the works of art were moved to the National Gallery of Umbria. Later it passed through several private ownerships and now it is owned by the Gerolamo Gaslini Foundation based in Genova. The crypt is probably the oldest part of the existing structure, dating to the early 11th century. The church above the crypt was of modest dimensions, the wall of the main apse is still visible from the outside. This church got demolished, when the erection of the new, larger church started, as then building material was needed. The crypt was used then as "lower church" and, when the new church was completed and a Gothic convent building was built over the crypt, as cellar. Some walls still have frescoes. Some scholars believe, that the (small) abbot, seen on the left on his knees, is Uguccione Monalducci (1302-1338), who may have commissioned the frescoes. We were very lucky to join a group that had booked a guided tour through the abbey.

Two Syrian hermits named Lazzaro and Giovanni had lived in the 5th century, where Faruald, Duke of Spoleto, founded this abbey within the 8th century "over the hermits´ tombs". In 724, Faroald's son Thrasimund rebelled and disposed his father into the monastery. For some generations the abbey was the burial ground for the Dukes of Spoleto Saracen troops looted and destroyed the Benedictian abbey end of the 9th century, but Otto III ordered a rebuilding soon after. In 1016 the abbey was completed. There is a long discussion about the church, as it may not have been "destroyed", but maybe was only "damaged" by the Saracens. In "Ombrie romane" Adriano Prandi cites a couple of scholars who date the church back to the 8th century, while he (taking in account the T-floorplan) dates it to the first half of the 11th. He actually connects this church to Cluny II and Saint Michael in Hldesheim, both completed somne decades before 1000. When Otto III, son of Otto II and his wife Theophanu, marched through on 996 in his way to Rome, where he claimed the titles King of Italy and Holy Roman Emperor, he may have been accompanied by experienced and well travelled architects. They may have cared for the rebuilding of the church, that Otto III had ordered. Some of the nave´s frescoes are Romanesque (1150). Here is the "Creaton of Eve".

Two Syrian hermits named Lazzaro and Giovanni had lived in the 5th century, where Faruald, Duke of Spoleto, founded this abbey within the 8th century "over the hermits´ tombs". In 724, Faroald's son Thrasimund rebelled and disposed his father into the monastery. For some generations the abbey was the burial ground for the Dukes of Spoleto Saracen troops looted and destroyed the Benedictian abbey end of the 9th century, but Otto III ordered a rebuilding soon after. In 1016 the abbey was completed. There is a long discussion about the church, as it may not have been "destroyed", but maybe was only "damaged" by the Saracens. In "Ombrie romane" Adriano Prandi cites a couple of scholars who date the church back to the 8th century, while he (taking in account the T-floorplan) dates it to the first half of the 11th. He actually connects this church to Cluny II and Saint Michael in Hldesheim, both completed somne decades before 1000. When Otto III, son of Otto II and his wife Theophanu, marched through on 996 in his way to Rome, where he claimed the titles King of Italy and Holy Roman Emperor, he may have been accompanied by experienced and well travelled architects. They may have cared for the rebuilding of the church, that Otto III had ordered. Some of the nave´s frescoes are Romanesque (1150). Here are the Magi. They (still) wear Phrygian caps. Later they were depiczed with crowns on their heads, bringing them (as Kings) in a linage with the medieval royalties.

A cathedral and a bishop's palace existed here already within the 9th century. The construction of the cathedral of today started in 1196, about 150 years later, the church may have been completed, but a massive addition of the cathedral was planned in 1339. It would have more than doubled the size of the structure by means of an entirely new nave and two aisles ranged perpendicular to the existing nave. The planned cathedral would have been larger than (old) Saint Peter in Rome, it was never completed. The construction was halted by the Black Death in 1348. Then errors in the static of the building got evident. A kind of under-church, that was underneath the choir of the cathedral had to be filled up, to give stability... and got completely forgotten. In 1999 this crypt was found and got excavated over the next years. There are some phantastic frescoes from around 1280. As they had been in the dark for centuries, the colours are surprisingly - clear. Here the "Descent from the Cross".

A cathedral and a bishop's palace existed here already within the 9th century. The construction of the cathedral of today started in 1196, about 150 years later, the church may have been completed, but a massive addition of the cathedral was planned in 1339. It would have more than doubled the size of the structure by means of an entirely new nave and two aisles ranged perpendicular to the existing nave. The planned cathedral would have been larger than (old) Saint Peter in Rome, it was never completed. The construction was halted by the Black Death in 1348. Then errors in the static of the building got evident. A kind of under-church, that was underneath the choir of the cathedral had to be filled up, to give stability... and got completely forgotten. In 1999 this crypt was found and got excavated over the next years. There are some phantastic frescoes from around 1280. As they had been in the dark for centuries, the colours are surprisingly - clear. Before the crypt was filled up, obviously walls had to be erected to stabilize the church above, so a part of the fresco got lost.

A cathedral and a bishop's palace existed here already within the 9th century. The construction of the cathedral of today started in 1196, about 150 years later, the church may have been completed, but a massive addition of the cathedral was planned in 1339. It would have more than doubled the size of the structure by means of an entirely new nave and two aisles ranged perpendicular to the existing nave. The planned cathedral would have been larger than (old) Saint Peter in Rome, it was never completed. The construction was halted by the Black Death in 1348. Then errors in the static of the building got evident. A kind of under-church, that was underneath the choir of the cathedral had to be filled up, to give stability... and got completely forgotten. In 1999 this crypt was found and got excavated over the next years. There are some phantastic frescoes from around 1280. As they had been in the dark for centuries, the colours are surprisingly - clear. Not all frescoes in the crypt survived the centuries in that mint condition just seen on the two previous uploads. Here is Nativity Scene. Ox and ass guard the enfant, Mary is reclined in the typical "etruscian" posture. The Magi (hard to see) are in the top left corner, Joseph (left) watches the preparation for the "First Bath".

Parma, part of the Holy Roman Empire since Charlemagne´s times, was locally ruled by its bishops. During the long Investiture Controversy, Parma was (mostly) member of the Imperial party ("Ghibellini"). Two of Parma´s bishops even became antipopes: Càdalo as Honorius II and Guibert as Clement III. An almost independent commune was created around 1140. After the Peace of Constance confirmed the Italian communes' rights of self-governance in 1183, quarrels with the neighbouring communes (eg Piacenza and Cremona) developed over the trading lines along the Po river. When in 1248 Papist families ("Guelphs") gained control over the city, Emperor Frederick II (aka "Stupor Mundi") besieged Parma with no success. This were the circumstances, when in 1196 the City Council of Parma commissioned the building of the Battistero di San Giovanni to Benedetto Antelami. In 1216 the second tier was completed. The work stopped under a temporary roof. It continued in 1249 and the octagon, located next to the cathedral, was finally completed in 1270. The interior of the baptistery contains sixteen arches, forming alcoves each containing a painted scene. All these are 13th and 14th century frescoes. Most striking is the painted domed ceiling. The dome is like an umbrella - sixteen rays come out of the center of the ceiling. Each corresponds to an arch below.

Parma, part of the Holy Roman Empire since Charlemagne´s times, was locally ruled by its bishops. During the long Investiture Controversy, Parma was (mostly) member of the Imperial party ("Ghibellini"). Two of Parma´s bishops even became antipopes: Càdalo as Honorius II and Guibert as Clement III. An almost independent commune was created around 1140. After the Peace of Constance confirmed the Italian communes' rights of self-governance in 1183, quarrels with the neighbouring communes (eg Piacenza and Cremona) developed over the trading lines along the Po river. When in 1248 Papist families ("Guelphs") gained control over the city, Emperor Frederick II (aka "Stupor Mundi") besieged Parma with no success. This were the circumstances, when in 1196 the City Council of Parma commissioned the building of the Battistero di San Giovanni to Benedetto Antelami. In 1216 the second tier was completed. The work stopped under a temporary roof. It continued in 1249 and the octagon, located next to the cathedral, was finally completed in 1270. The interior of the baptistery contains sixteen arches, forming alcoves each containing a painted scene. All these are 13th and 14th century frescoes. The dome is like an umbrella - sixteen rays come out of the center of the ceiling. Each corresponds to an arch below. Here are three (of the sixteen) arches. Seen from left to right: NATIVITAS STE JOHANNIS BATISTE The Birth of John the Baptist. His mother Elizabeth, reclined on the bed, watches the midwives performing "the first bath". HIC BATISTATUR CHRIST Christ´s baptism in the River Jordan. The painting is obviously influenced by older icons (Ravenna). Christ is nude - and the River Jordan is personalised. HIC AMPUTAVIT CAPUT JOHANNIS The death of John the Baptist. Seen below is (left) Abramham´s sacrifie - and (right) two battle scenes, probably connected to the cruisades (camels).

St. Arbogast is the only church in Switzerland that is surrounded by a defensive wall. A church has existed here already in the 5th century. Mid 12th century the erection of a Romanesque church started, but it got never completed, due to the Basel earthquake of 18 October 1356, the most significant earthquake, historically documented in Central Europe. Rebuilding started in 1359, from around the fortification of the church started and the wall around the church got built. It is 7 metres high! The interior walls of the church once were covered with frescoes, dating back to 1450/1500. They were hidden under plaster but since the 1970s are renovated and can be seen again. Some of the frescoes are attributed to Martin Schongauer. When the frescoes were created, Martin Luther had not written down the the "Ninety-Five Theses", that started the Reformation in 1517, so it is now wonder to see Saint James (St. Jaques) here as a pilgrim. Things changed dramatically very soon, as the Swiss Reformators (Zwingli, Calvin, Oekolampad..) had a way more radical approach, than their Lutherian collegues in Germany. In February 1529 a group of about 200 people forced their way into the (at that time still catholic) Muenster in Basel (only about 6kms apart from Muttenz,) and destroyed all reachable crucifixes, statues and altars, just everything what was connected to "idolatry" in their thinking. The same afternoon the iconoclasm extended to many other churches in Basel as well. Erasmus of Rotterdam was an eyewittness of the iconoclasm and wrote about it.

The first Christian church was built here at the site of a Roman temple in the 4th century. A tree nave basilica existed in the 9th century. A Romanesque cathedral was built, when Bishop Warmund (= Warmondo) had his episcopal see here, end of the 10th century. It is known, that this church had a "westwerk", following the Ottonian architecture, popular at that time north of the Alpes. Alterations and rebuildings were undertaken in the 13th, 15th and 16th century. In 1785 it was rebuilt again in a Baroque style, but parts of the ambulatory and the large crypt below the choir were not demolished and are still originating from the Romanesque church. Once probably all the interior walls of the crypt were covered with frescoes.

The first Christian church was built here at the site of a Roman temple in the 4th century. A tree nave basilica existed in the 9th century. A Romanesque cathedral was built, when Bishop Warmund (= Warmondo) had his episcopal see here, end of the 10th century. It is known, that this church had a "westwerk", following the Ottonian architecture, popular at that time north of the Alpes. Alterations and rebuildings were undertaken in the 13th, 15th and 16th century. In 1785 it was rebuilt again in a Baroque style, but parts of the ambulatory and the large crypt below the choir were not demolished and are still originating from the Romanesque church. Once probably all the interior walls of the crypt were covered with frescoes, though this one is clearly younger than that, seen on the previous upload.

This was the center of the former diocese, founded by the legendary Saint Restitut, who had travelled to France with the "Three Marys". Two of his successors were Saint Torquatus and Saint Paul, after whom the town later was named. A church was erected over their tombs. A cathedral dedicated to the Virgin and Saint Paul that existed mid 9th century got destroyed when the Saracen and in the 920s Hungarian troops raided the area. Today´s cathedral was erected from 1120 on. Around 1180 the nave was completed, it was consecrated in the early 13th century. Severely damaged during the Wars of Religions it lost the importance, when after the Concordat of 1801 the long history of the "Diocese of Tricastin" ended. Since then the cathedral serves the parish. Jean-Maurice Rouquette ("Provence Romane") describes this cathedral as the "perfect example" for the "art roman provençal", the specific style of Romanesque architecture that developed in this region. As I have already uploaded many fotos taken here during rom previous visits, so I will just add a few now.

It is known, that the Abbaye Sainte-Marie de Lagrasse (11kms north) had a priory here since 1093, but this church is probably older than that. The small church was obviously erected in two stages. Some scholars see mozzarabic influences, dating it to the very early 11th centuries, while other scholars see Visogothic traces, dating it back to the 8th/9th century. Most interesting and difficult to date is this hors-shoe arch. The capitals on the sides do not really fit. The frescoes on the back were done within the 12th century - and not in a good condition any more. Some people have compared them to works in the Vall de Boí (about 300kms southwest).

The enigmatic church Notre-Dame de Vals towers over the tiny village of Vals (pop 90). The church, that is partly "troglodyte", carved into the giant rock, has three levels. The oldest part, called "the crypt", probably dates to the 9th or 10th century. Most surprising here are frescoes, discovered under several layers of plaster in 1952. They are dated to around 1100/1120 and meanwhile got restaurated.

The enigmatic church Notre-Dame de Vals towers over the tiny village of Vals (pop 90). The church, that is partly "troglodyte", carved into the giant rock, has three levels. The oldest part, called "the crypt", probably dates to the 9th or 10th century. Most surprising here are frescoes, discovered under several layers of plaster in 1952. They are dated to around 1100/1120 and meanwhile got restaurated. SANCTUS ANDREAS - SANCTUS PETRUS

The enigmatic church Notre-Dame de Vals towers over the tiny village of Vals (pop 90). The church, that is partly "troglodyte", carved into the giant rock, has three levels. The oldest part, called "the crypt", probably dates to the 9th or 10th century. Most surprising here are frescoes, discovered under several layers of plaster in 1952. They are dated to around 1100/1120 and meanwhile got restaurated. The Virgin reclined on a bed under an ornamented blanket. Below is the "First Bath". The midwives (nimbus) flank the vessel. Young Jesus does not really look like a newborn baby. The scene reminds me on - Byzantine icons from Italy. Ravenna maybe. Peter Hubert´s interesting article on the iconography of the Nativity and the First Bath: www.green-man-of-cercles.org/articles/nativity_of_christ.pdf

The enigmatic church Notre-Dame de Vals towers over the tiny village of Vals (pop 90). The church, that is partly "troglodyte", carved into the giant rock, has three levels. The oldest part, called "the crypt", probably dates to the 9th or 10th century. Most surprising here are frescoes, discovered under several layers of plaster in 1952. They are dated to around 1100/1120 and meanwhile got restaurated. A closer look onto the "First Bath". The midwives (nimbus!) flank the vessel, that reminds on a baptismal font. Young Jesus (cross-nimbus, red (?) hair) does not really look like a newborn baby. The scene reminds me on - Byzantine icons from Italy. Ravenna maybe. Peter Hubert´s interesting article on the iconography of the Nativity and the First Bath: www.green-man-of-cercles.org/articles/nativity_of_christ.pdf

The enigmatic church Notre-Dame de Vals towers over the tiny village of Vals (pop 90). The church, that is partly "troglodyte", carved into the giant rock, has three levels. The oldest part, called "the crypt", probably dates to the 9th or 10th century. Most surprising here are frescoes, discovered under several layers of plaster in 1952. They are dated to around 1100/1120 and meanwhile got restaurated. Seen to the very left is the "Annunciation", what adds to the frescoes "Nativity" and "First Bath". Very hard to see is - the "Adoration of the Magi", as this icon is -nearly- lost. There are still some traces. The head of Mary is in the center. To the left is a flower/star - and an inscription STELLA, what can only be the "Star of Bethlehem" Below this is another inscription BALTASAR and a head (with a tonsur?) below, one of Magi. His two collegues - are unfortunately lost.