Meeting the local boys

Shida Kartli შიდა ქართლი


Folder: Georgia / Sakartvelo
Shida Kartli is known for its rich history and cultural heritage, with various historical and archaeological sites throughout the region. The name "Shida Kartli" in English translates as "Inner Kartli," and the term "Kartli" itself derives from Proto-Kartvelian root *kart- ("Georgian"), which is considered an ancient inner-Kartvelian formation by modern linguists. It is a landlocked administrativ…  (read more)

Meeting the local boys

15 Jul 1999 6 1 110
On the third day of our camping trip in this magnificent, nearly deserted UNESCO-protected site, we were visited by a group of local boys. They warmly invited us to go swimming and join them for a light breakfast. We gladly accepted and spent a pleasant morning getting to know them before we had to leave for Svaneti.The boys were very friendly and curious about us and our travels. Though we came from vastly different backgrounds, we were able to find common ground and make a human connection through simple kindnesses like sharing a meal.

The Theatre

15 Jul 1999 7 1 51
The structure commonly referred to as the 'Theatre' in Uplistsikhe is believed to have been a temple rather than a theatre. It is recognisable for its triangular roof and columns, which are now crude concrete replacements of the original structure. The Theatre is considered too small for a major theatrical performance and is thought to have been used for ritualistic plays, possibly related to religious mystery plays, which were never intended for a large audience. Experts believe that it could date back to the 1st or 2nd century AD and was likely a place of religious significance, adding to the mystical and historical atmosphere of Uplistsikhe.

A Cult

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Uplistsikhe, an ancient rock-hewn town in eastern Georgia was a significant urban settlement, with various structures dating from the Early Iron Age to the Late Middle Ages. The town was a cult temple city and a large pagan centre prior to the introduction of Christianity in Georgia in the 4th century. It was dedicated to the sun goddess and served as a religious center by 1000 BC.

A troglodyte town in the Caucasus

15 Jul 1999 12 4 119
Uplistsikhe, which translates to "the lord's fortress," is an ancient rock-hewn town located in eastern Georgia, about 10 kilometers east of the town of Gori, Shida Kartli. The town is built on the high rocky left bank of the Mtkvari River and contains various structures dating from the Early Iron Age to the Late Middle Ages. Uplistsikhe is notable for its unique combination of various styles of rock-cut cultures from Anatolia and Iran, as well as the co-existence of pagan and Christian architecture. The town is identified by archaeologists as one of the oldest urban settlements in Georgia. Strategically located in the heartland of the ancient kingdom of Kartli (or Iberia as it was known to the Classical authors), it emerged as a major political and religious center of the country. With the Christianisation of Kartli early in the 4th century, Uplistsikhe seems to have declined in its importance and lost its position to the new centers of Christian culture – Mtskheta and, later Tbilisi. However, it continued to develop as a town, and the first Christian basilica was constructed in the 6th century. In the 19th century, Uplistsikhe was lost under layers of dirt and sand but was later revived through the efforts of many experts in its excavation, cleaning, strengthening, restoration, and studying. Today, it is listed among the historical monuments protected by UNESCO.

Uplistsikhe

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Uplistsikhe cave complex has been on the tentative list for inclusion into the UNESCO World Heritage program since 2007

The very top

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The area beneath the Prince Church in Uplistsikhe is known as the 'Long Temple' and is another set of cave halls worth a quick glance. The Prince Church is easily recognizable for its brick facade and doesn't quite fit in with its surroundings. The Long Temple is believed to have been a pagan temple, like many other structures in Uplistsikhe. The exact use of the Long Temple is unknown, but it is thought to have been a place of religious significance.

A church

15 Jul 1999 1 34
You’ve noticed a building that does not quite fit in with its surroundings. The Prince Church is an ancient structure that dates back to the 9th or 10th centuries and is located in Uplistsikhe, an ancient rock-hewn town in eastern Georgia. It is one of the few structures that survived the Mongol invasion, despite the Mongols killing thousands of monks. The reason why the Mongols spared the church is unclear, but it is possible that they used it as their base of operations during the invasion. Uplistsikhe was a pagan holy place before Georgia's conversion to Christianity, and there would have been a prominent temple on the site. It is noteworthy that many churches throughout the Caucasus region were built over the ruins of demolished temples. The decline of Uplistsikhe began in the 12th century after Mongol invasions, although it was still functioning for the next few centuries.

The rock

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Geologically, Uplistsikhe is situated on an impressive rocky plateau carved out of a tuff stone formation. Tuff is a type of volcanic rock formed from consolidated volcanic ash and other pyroclastic materials. The plateau consists of various rock-cut structures interconnected by narrow streets, tunnels, and staircases, forming a labyrinth-like complex. These structures include dwellings, public buildings, a theater, a palace, and even a Christian basilica, indicating the influence of different civilizations that inhabited Uplistsikhe over the centuries.

Uplistsikhe

Uplistsikhe

Uplistsikhe panorama

Uplistsikhe

Uplistsikhe

Countryside seen from Uplistsikhe

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Uplistsikhe is situated on a hill within the Gori-Uplistsikhe Ridge. This ridge offers a panoramic view of the surrounding valleys, rivers, and small villages. We can overlook the Mtkvari River Valley, which adds a scenic element to its location. The river winds through the valley, creating a picturesque setting. The surrounding hills are composed of limestone, creating unique cliff formations. These cliffs add to the dramatic and rugged landscape of the area.Numerous small villages surround Uplistsikhe within the Gori Municipality. Examples include Zemo Khukhuti, Kvemo Khukhuti, Mtskheta, Shalauri, and many others. These villages offer a glimpse into rural Georgian life and often have historic sites, such as churches and fortified towers.

Uplistsikhe

A river at sunset

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The Mtkvari River flows by Uplistsikhe, Georgia, and plays a significant role in the region's landscape and history. The river is also known as the Kura River and has its source in the mountains of central Georgia, near the town of Lori. The river flows through the eastern third of Kvemo Kartli, a region in central-to-eastern Georgia, and is an important part of the landscape and the site's history in the region of Kartli.

Murderer's museum

15 Jul 1999 9 3 68
The Stalin Museum is a museum in Gori, Georgia dedicated to the life of Ioseb Besarionis dze Jughashvili alias Joseph Vissarionovich Stalin, the infamous Soviet dictator and mass murderer, who was born here. The museum retains its Soviet-era characteristics and was officially dedicated to Stalin in 1957 - I could not find any mention of the crimes, atrocities or horrors committed during Stalin's rule. The complex of the museum includes the memorial house (on the photo) where the devil was born, his carriage, and a two-storey exhibition building. The exhibits are divided into six halls in roughly chronological order, and contain many items actually or allegedly owned by Stalin, including some of his office furniture, his personal effects, and gifts made to him over the years. The museum nowadays also has a separate room devoted to the period of repressions, which has existed since 2010. About Gori, which offered nothing interesting. The reason is that the town was destroyed in the 1920 earthquake, and almost completely rebuilt in the Soviet period. An important industrial center in Soviet times, Gori suffered from an economic collapse and the outflow of the population during the years of a post-Soviet crisis of the 1990s.

Gori fortress

15 Jul 1999 5 2 69
Gori Fortress is a medieval citadel located in the city of Gori, Georgia, standing atop a rocky hill overlooking the city. Archaeological evidence indicates the area had been fortified since at least the last centuries BCE, but the fortress first appears in written records from the 13th century. Its strategic location along important trade routes meant that controlling Gori Fortress was critical for maintaining political and military control over the Shida Kartli region of Georgia. As a result, it was continually fought over and captured by Georgians, Ottomans, Persians, and Russians over the centuries The fortress underwent major renovations and rebuilding numerous times, most significantly in the 17th century under King Rostom and in the late 18th century under King Erekle II, giving it much of its current structural form. Key surviving structures today include the western-facing Tskhra-kara ("Nine Gates") walls and a small church in the southeast section. However, the fortress suffered major damage in a 1920 earthquake and remains largely in ruins. Visitors can access the fortress by a short walk up the hill from Gori city center. Despite its dilapidated state, it offers impressive views of Gori and is an interesting glimpse into Georgia's medieval military history for travellers.

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