Medieval Apes and Monkeys

The parish church of Baugy, dedicated to Saint Pons, dates back into the 11th century. The church on a little hill, overlooking the Loire river, is archaic - and still pretty much intact. It hs some nice carvings. Here is a nice monkey, that seems to be "younger" than that one just seen in Charlieu. That would mean, that the corbel was added later to this church.

The church Saint-Pierre-aux-Liens ("St. Peter in Chains") seems huge in the center of a village with a population of well under 150. Cluny owned the place since 1045, and from 1095 on, the small community was administered by the priory of Marcigny. Already in the 1130s the little monastery was important enough to be an "indpendent" cluniacensic priory. This was probably the time, when the construction of the church, built from sandstone. There are many corbels under the roof. Devils, demons - and this monkey. To see an ape or monkey depicted on a corbel is not that special, but this one may have ties to the strange ape on the centaur-capital inside.

This single-nave church, constructed around 1130/1140, was previously ministered by the monks of Anzy-le-Duc, just 4kms south. The western facade with the portal of the church was never altered. A sheltering narthex had been here once, so that the carvings are still in a very good condition. Depicted on the tympanum and the lintel is the "Ascension of Jesus". A masterpiece. I have the impression, that some of the corbels here were carved by young apprentices. Or maybe even some gifted villagers got a chance. The workmanship of this little monkey may be pretty poor, but I really like the monkey. It reminds me on a stuffed toy bear I owned - once.

The carved head of a monkey - or maybe an ape. The carving are is different in style and material from the surrounding capitals. I could not find out, how much "restaurantion" was done here in the late 19th century. This carving seems to be much older. It may - like some others - originate from an older structure - and reused here.

Charlieu Abbey, founded already in 872 was dedicated to Saint Fortunatus, who like Saint Hilary, whom we met in Semur-en-Brionnais, was bishop of Poitiers (600/610). In 932 the abbey was annexed by Cluny, one of the first acquisitions of Cluny, that was founded 910. Pope Urban II consecrated the new church here in 1094. This has been already the third church here. The narthex was added 1130. The layout of the church is similar to that one of the priory church in Anzy-le-Duc (25kms to the north). Both churches have architectural "roots" in Cluny II, that got demolished in 1088 to make room for Cluny III. The Benedictine community went through the centuries, the village Charlieu prospered. Times got harder for the monks in the 18th century. In September 1792 a Revolutionary mob broke into the abbey - and burnt all records. In 1795 the church was sold as a quarry for building materials. The eastern side of the church is gone since then. Of the church only the narthex and the westernmost bay still exist - as ruins. Some parts of the monastery, like the cloister, were reconstructed. On the other side of the narthex, just around the corner from the delicately carved, but damaged tympana, is this carving of a monkey head. - A very different style - and untouched by the vandals. I love these carvings of exotic animals - and I have compared it to photos of mandrills.

The priory of Anzy-le-Duc was founded 876. When Hugues de Poitier, one of the founders, died here in the "odeur" of sanctity (930) the first pilgrims started to head for this place. The church (used as a parish church today, dedicated to the Assumption), was erected 1180 - 1230, when great numbers of pilgrims met here. The layout of the church is similar to the (ruined) church of nearby Charlieu: a basilica with a transept and five apses. During the Wars of Religion Huguenots destroyed the tomb of St. Hugh and in 1594 the church was set on fire. After the priory was dissolved in 1789 the church was sold and abandoned, before the villagers used it as a parish church in the early 19th century. The church in Anzy-le-Duc is known for it´s richness of carvings, and so it is probably the finest example of romanesque art in the Southern Burgundy. The carvings are remarkable for their workmanship, though they may differ in quality. Six different masters (or workshops) can be found, differing in style - and in themes and designs. Í will resist to upload all photos I took. I will upload some examples - from different angles. Here again, like seen before, a large ape or monkey accompanies the sad looking man. "Man and monkey" are a common often used term in art. Even John Lennon used that singing "Everybody's got something to hide, except for me and my monkey". In 2000 German historian Matthias Hamann published two volumes titled "Die burgundische Prioratskirche von Anzy-le-Duc und die romanische Plastik im Brionnais", totalling more than 600 pages (and 599 pics). Here is an abstract in French and English: www.uni-muenster.de/Fruehmittelalter/Projekte/Cluny/BiblC...

The priory of Anzy-le-Duc was founded 876. When Hugues de Poitier, one of the founders, died here in the "odeur" of sanctity (930) the first pilgrims started to head for this place. The church (used as a parish church today, dedicated to the Assumption), was erected 1180 - 1230, when great numbers of pilgrims met here. The layout of the church is similar to the (ruined) church of nearby Charlieu: a basilica with a transept and five apses. During the Wars of Religion Huguenots destroyed the tomb of St. Hugh and in 1594 the church was set on fire. After the priory was dissolved in 1789 the church was sold and abandoned, before the villagers used it as a parish church in the early 19th century. The church in Anzy-le-Duc is known for it´s richness of carvings, and so it is probably the finest example of romanesque art in the Southern Burgundy. The carvings are remarkable for their workmanship, though they may differ in quality. Six different masters (or workshops) can be found, differing in style - and in themes and designs. Í will resist to upload all photos I took. I will upload some examples - from different angles. On both capitals seen before, the atlas figure and the contemplating, sad looking men on the corners are accompanied by apes (or monkeys). The animals seem to be pretty large, compared to the men. In 2000 German historian Matthias Hamann published two volumes titled "Die burgundische Prioratskirche von Anzy-le-Duc und die romanische Plastik im Brionnais", totalling more than 600 pages (and 599 pics). Here is an abstract in French and English: www.uni-muenster.de/Fruehmittelalter/Projekte/Cluny/BiblC...

The well preserved and fortified little town of La Couvertoirade was once built up and established by the Knights Templar. Following their dissolution in 1312, the property was taken by the Knights of St John ("Military Order of Malta") who had the still existing wall around the town built between 1439 and 1450. The town was never taken, it withstood the dreadful "Grandes compagnies", groups of "free lancers", raiding and looting and later the Huguenots. But over the centuries it lost it´s population. Today less that 200 people live here, mostly gifted artists, waiting for the tourists, walking through this perfect open air museum. Second time within months, that I find a corbel with a monkey. Both times it was raining. See his wet collegue in Pontevedra. www.flickr.com/photos/martin-m-miles/4717816908/

This monkey under the roof of the 14th century "Convento de Santa Clara" in Pontevedra did not like the weather. No wonder!

The architecture of Notre Dame de l'Assomption, the parish church of Rouffach, about 20kms south of Colmar, is a mixture of romanesque and gothique style. The pretty huge building suffered heavy damage during the French Revolution. The companion of the musician seen on the preceding photo, playing either bagpipe or lute, is on top of the next spire. The companion is a monkey! Maybe the monkey is dancing, maybe the monkey plays an instrumet as well. His hands got lost, but there is a rope going up to his neck - and this rope may have been connected to lute or other stringed instrument. Maybe the two musicians perform a duet. From the posture, the monkey is very similar to his "master". Maybe the monkey even imitates him.

There had been a cathedral here earlier, that was just too small, when Autun became a center of pilgrimage, after relics of St. Lazarus were kept here since about 970. Just like Vezelay, only 90kms north, where the relics of St. Lazarus´ sister St. Maria Magdalena were kept at that time. So in 1120 it was decided to construct this larger and more suitable cathedral. At that time this construction was influenced by Cluny III, that was a little older. After severe damage during the Hundred Years' War, rebuilding and remodeling the romanesque structure started.The central nave never changed - and the many carved capitals. Some of this works were taken down, during the renovation by Viollet-le-Duc and are now shown in the "Salle Capitulaire", where it is interesting to see the carvings at eye level. This masterly carved capital depicts Samson wrestling a lion. Here he is just opening the lion´s mouth, before he is going to rip the lion apart. Book of Judges 14:6 "And the Spirit of the LORD came mightily upon him, and he rent him as he would have rent a kid, and he had nothing in his hand: but he told not his father or his mother what he had done." Surprisingly Samson seems to be an elderly, well dressed man. Note the carving of Samsons dress and the nice mane of the lion. Not connected to the Book of Judges, but an interesting and exotic extension is in the left upper corner. A monkey is picking fruits from the branches.

The remarkable parish church in the village of Iguerande was constructed late 11th century. It is dedicated to Saint Marcel and belonged to Cluny since 1088 via the nearby priory of Marcigny. A nice, sturdy church. Pretty intact and known for some mysterious carvings. This is the most mysterious and probably most photographed capital in Saint Marcel. It´s all about music. - There is a two persons playing a duet. - Let me start with the left musician, who is just looking around the corner. A little monkey / ape plays the harp. Well, that is not that extraordinary. Lots of animals can be found playing instruments on medieval carvings: Though mostly donkeys play the harp - with the hoofs. On the right out of the floral volute dangles - a pumkin. The pumpkin has one central eye on his forehead - and plays the panflute! He holds the flute with his nicely carved hands. Is this the return of the cannibalistic Polyphemus, one of the cyclops, whom Odysseus met already? Did Polyphem play the panflute in the story, told by Homer? I remember, that he did drink very strong wine - and fall asleep... Maybe this a cutout from a nightmare, the carver had, after a couple of very strong wines. I have no clue, but it is - fantastic!!

The former collegiate church St. Lazare in Avallon was consecrated in 1106. Over the centuries, the church changed a lot, got looted and heavily damaged during the Wars of Religion and after the French Revolution. In 1633 it partly collapsed. The carvings though heavily damaged, are very detailed. As relics of Saint Lazarus were shown here in medieval times, lots of pilgrims stopped here on their way to Vezelay. St. Lazarus was one of the very popular saints in that time. The Cathédrale Saint-Lazare in Autun, only about 80kms south, had relics of St. Lazarus as well. A details from the side: a climbing little monkey head over heels under a corbel. He has a close relative nearby seen on the next photo..

The former collegiate church St. Lazare in Avallon was consecrated in 1106. Over the centuries, the church changed a lot, got looted and heavily damaged during the Wars of Religion and after the French Revolution. In 1633 it partly collapsed. The carvings though heavily damaged, are very detailed. As relics of Saint Lazarus were shown here in medieval times, lots of pilgrims stopped here on their way to Vezelay. St. Lazarus was one of the very popular saints in that time. The Cathédrale Saint-Lazare in Autun, only about 80kms south, had relics of St. Lazarus as well. A details from the side: a large monkey sitting under a corbel. Eating. Seems to be an older relative of the small monkey under the other corbel, next to him. See the last photo.

The monastery St. Gilles, founded within the 7th century. A hermit lived here - with a hind. After Visigothic King Wamba had injured this hind during a hunt, he founded a monastry. St. Gilles was the first abbot there. St. Gilles was one of the most popular saints in medieval times, pilgrims flocked to his tomb in the crypt - and continued to Santiago from here. St. Gilles today is still one of the Fourteen Holy Helpers. During the Wars of Religion the abbey and the church were totally destroyed and burnt down, what was in 1562. 1622 the campanile got demolished. After that only the crypt, part of the clocher, some eastern walls of the choir existed. The portal, which reminds on roman Triumph-arches, got demolished after the french revolution, - but puzzled together again within the 19th century, with material found all around. The precise knowledge about many details was lost, so in some parts it still is an unfinshed puzzle. For sure some parts are still missing - and this is visible. Probably different masters have worked here, as there are different styles in carving on this portal. Here some pretty exotic animals. A skinny dromedary to the right and two monkeys in chains on the left. The carver had a very creative idea: one leg of the monkey in the middle reaches over the frame. Behind them (this is a "3D-puzzle") a bust sculpture of a saint. Maybe this is only the top part of a "full" figure - and the second part is lost. It is placed so far in the background, that I do not believe, that this is the original place. Though there are letters on the nimbus, I could not find out the name of the saint.

The capitals in the Basilica Notre-Dame-Du-Port are very elaborate. On some of them even a signature (ROTBERTUS) could be found. This capital, perfectly carved, differs thematically. It depicts an ape - on a rope, led a man. I have seen a couple of carved monkeys and apes before, but never such a giant creature with such a threatening facial expression. This ape is at least as tall as the man on the side, probably taller, as the ape is bending his knees The ape seen here is probably a symbol for the evil, a creature from hell, - but the evil here is under control of the man.

The small village of Droiturier hosts (at least) two remarkable architectoral structures. These are a roman bridge and the church Saint-Nicolas. The 12th century romanesque church was once a part of a benedictian collegiate, belonging to Cluny. The collegiate community is gone since centuries and with all its buildings. Despite the unimpressive front, just seen before, the interior of basilica-style Saint-Nicolas is clearly romanesque amd has many carved capitals. This one is the most interesting one. A man holding an ape by a rope. This icon (man/rope/ape) is somehow typical for the Auvergne area, the French call this "singe cordé". I found a couple of these pairs and will upload more. Meanwhile I learned, that within the Auvergne are about 20 (!) similar carvings.

The small village of Droiturier hosts (at least) two remarkable architectoral structures. These are a roman bridge and the church Saint-Nicolas. The 12th century romanesque church was once a part of a benedictian collegiate, belonging to Cluny. The collegiate community is gone since centuries and with all its buildings. The same capital, seen before. Now from the right side. A strange detail is to the evry right. Next to the ape is the head of "dragon" with a very long neck. The dragon has pretty frightening teeth. The icon (man/rope/ape) is somehow typical for the Auvergne area, the French call this "singe cordé". I found a couple of these pairs and will upload more. Meanwhile I learned, that within the Auvergne are about 20 (!) similar carvings.