Greece - Ελλάδα - Griekenland

The Pantanassa (“Queen of All”) Monastery is the only monastery on the archaeological site of Mystras ( www.ipernity.com/doc/294067/49139868 ), which is still inhabited. This sacred monastery was founded by a chief minister of the late Byzantine Despotate of the Morea, and was dedicated in September 1428. The domed church with its tall bell tower reflect a unique combination of Byzantine and gothic styles; it has a beautifully ornate stone-carved facade. The arched interior is filled with colourful frescoes. When we arrived at the monastery after a steep climb, one of the friendly and helpful nuns welcomed us with a glass of cool water, a very sweet loukoumia and provided us with a wrap to cover our legs. We were surprised by the idyllic patio with lots of flowers and green plants. Pantanassa Monastery is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Mystras.

Faneromeni Monastery - the most important religious center on the island of Lefkada - was built in 1634 on the site of an ancient temple dedicated to Artemis, the goddess of hunt, forests and animas. On this site, the students of Apostle Paul had preached Christianity some centuries ago. In the Venetian times, particularly in the 18th century, the monastery was renovated, but unfortunately, two fires burnt it down. In the late 19th century the monastery was rebuolt in its current state. Today, it hosts an interesting Ecclesiastical Museum with rare Byzantine icons, paintings, carvings, handwritten manuscripts and other religious relics. The monastery is located on a hill above the town of Lefkada and offers great views to the village and the northern side of the island PiP5).

The (old) monastery Agios Dionysios is located in the Enipeas gorge at an altitude of 850 meters in the Olympus Mountains (PiP5). The monastery was directly subordinated to the patriarch of Constantinople. The monastery was founded in 1542 by Saint Dionysios. Its name was Agia Triada, which means Holy Trinity. Surrounded by strong high walls and equipped with a watchtower, it looked like a small fortress. During various conflicts the monastery served as a refuge for civilians, but also for military personnel. In its history, the monastery has been plundered and burned, but also rebuilt several times. In April 1943 the monastery was attacked by the German army. Assuming that the building could be a refuge for Greek resistance fighters, the Germans first bombed it and then destroyed it with explosives. After the destruction of their monastery in 1943, the monks moved to an annex fifteen kilometers from the old monastery and much lower on the slope of the Olympus. That complex, dating from 1650, grew in the following years into the (new) Dionysios monastery. The remains of the old monastery and the walls that surrounded it are still visible. The main church has been restored and renovated. Its location and the mixtures of ruins and the renovated katholikon (= main church of the monastery) made it for me a special and very charming site.

Like many other Byzantine monasteries, Osios Loukas Monastery is situated in a picturesque valley with olive trees on the slopes of Mount Helicon - opposite Mount Parnassus. The monastic complex is in harmony with the surrounding landscape, following the example of the ancient temples. The buildings are considered being the largest and best preserved of the Middle Byzantine period, with extraordinary architecture and excellent decorations of mosaics, frescoes and sculptures. The complex is enclosed by a wall and comprises blocks of cells, a bell-tower, the refectory nowadays a museum - and two churches. The katholikon - main church of the monastery - was built in 1011-12. This cathedral is the only surviving structure to have eight pillars surrounding the central dome. The second one is the Church of Theotokos (Virgin Mary). This is the only church in Greece that is certain to have been built in the 10th century. The architectural design of the church follows the typical Byzantine architecture of "cross-in square" type and the walls have been built out of a mixture of bricks, marble and stone. It became the prototype for all the classical Byzantine churches of southern Greece. The monastery was founded around the middle of the 10th by the monk Loukás (St. Luke). His relics are exhibited in the katholikon. They were stolen by the Crusaders during the 13th century and kept in the Vatican for centuries. The monastery of Osios Loukas - still inhabited by monks - is included in the list of world heritage monuments of UNESCO.

Nafplio (or Nafplion) was the first capital of the newly born Greek state - after a Turkish occupation - between 1823 and 1834. It is situated along the Argolic Gulf in the north-eastern part of the Peloponnesus, just a couple of hours by car from Athens. The city with a small port is built on a small peninsula beneath the towering Palamidi fortress. According to mythology, the town was founded by Nafplios, the son of god Poseidon and the daughter of Danaus Anymone. The history traces back to the prehistoric era when soldiers from here participated in the Argonautic expedition and the Trojan War alike. The town declined during the Roman times and flourished again during the Byzantine times. Frankish, Venetian and Turkish conquerors left their mark in the town and strongly influenced its culture, architecture and traditions during the centuries. It is said that Nafplio is one of the most prettiest and romantic towns of Greece. After our visit I fully agree with that. It was such a pleasure strolling through the medieval old town with its narrow streets, lined with small shops, boutiques, (art) galleries, cafés and restaurants. Well preserved mansions with their architecture and beauty were on many places full with blooming jasmine and bougainvillea. .

Nikiti is a popular tourist town on the west coast of the Sithonia peninsula. In the summer months, the terraces along the sea are crowded with tourists. In the port of Nikiti tourist boats, yachts and fishing boats moor (PiP1). The village offers many restaurants, bars, cafes - especially along the seafront - and shops. The northern part of Nikiti is the most traditional neighborhood (PiP2). The old houses from the beginning of the 19th century along the narrow streets are built of stone. The red tiles and gardens create a friendly atmosphere in this (quiet) part of Nikiti.

Nikopolis (or Nicopolis) was founded by the Roman Emperor Octavian (Augustus) in the year of 31 BC, to commemorate his victory against Antony and Cleopatra of Egypt at the naval battle of Actium at the mouth of the Ambracian Gulf. The city - most probably the largest in ancient Greece - was built between the gulf and the Ionian Sea. The city was named Nikopolis, which means ‘city of victory’. The city was also founded for military and trade needs. Nikopolis flourished in the two centuries which followed its foundation and it had several large public buildings (baths, stadium, theatre, odeon), while a 50 kilometers long aqueduct ( www.ipernity.com/doc/294067/47923442 ) provided it with fresh water from the mountains near Ioannina. In the second half of the 3rd century Greece became exposed to raids of barbarian tribes. The situation worsened in the 4th century, when Germanic tribes moved southwards and settled inside the northern border of the Roman Empire. These events coupled with earthquakes and pestilences led to a general decrease of the population which affected also Nikopolis. By the end of the 5th century its inhabitants realized they were too few to defend the whole city and they decided to fortify with new walls a section of the town. The decline of Byzantine Nikopolis was due to a series of raids by the Arabs in the 9th century and by the Bulgarians in the two following centuries. Eventually at the end of the 11th century the last inhabitants abandoned Nikopolis and founded Preveza. In 1798 French Revolutionary troops, stationed in Preveza by Napoleon, dug into the graves and ruins of ancient Nikopolis and looted various treasures. These were later taken by the troops of Ali Pasha, who defeated the French and their Greek allies. We visited the archaeological site - the first excavations were carried out in the period 1913-1926 - with its ruins, but to be honest we were not very impressed, as quite a lot were rather dilapidated. Although the old city wall was very astonishing.

Olympia was the site of the ancient Olympic Games, which were celebrated every four years, starting in 776 BCE. Olympia is situated in a valley in Elis, in western Peloponnesus. The site was not a town, but only a sanctuary with buildings associated with games and the worship of the gods. The sanctuary - originally known as the Altis - was a level area, about 200 meters long by nearly 180 meters broad. It was walled on each side, except to the north where it was bounded by Mount Kronos. The Altis consists of a somewhat disordered arrangement of buildings, the most important of which were the Temple of Hera, the Temple of Zeus, the area of the great altar of Zeus, the votive buildings and buildings associated with the administration of the games. The Philippeion (main image and PiP1) - the only structure inside the Altis dedicated to a human - was a circular memorial for king Philip II of Macedonia. Outside the Altis were the stadium (PiP2) and the hippodrome, where the Olympic Games took place, the palaestra/wrestling school (PiP3), the gymnasium, where all competitors were obliged to train for at least one month and the leonidaion (PiP4), lodging place for athletes taking part in the Olympic Games. Excavations of the archaeological site began in 1829 and many valuable objects were discovered, which can be seen in the nearby museum. According to UNESCO’s World Heritage website, there is probably no ancient archaeological site anywhere in the world more relevant in today’s world than Olympia. The Olympic flame - a symbol of the modern Olympic movement, introduced for the 1928 Summer Olympics in Amsterdam - is lit in front of the ruins of the Temple of Hera in Olympia (PiP5).

The Church of Agios Georgios (Saint George) is located 20km southwest of the city of Kastoria, in the mountainous village Omorfokklesia. The church is one of the most popular Byzantine monuments of Macedonia. From this church the village also took its name, which was initially called Kallista or Ghalista (“kallisti” in Greek means “the most beautiful”). The cruciform church with a narthex is estimated to be built in 11th century. Its interior decoration has plenty frescoes dated in 13th century whereas its exterior frescoes are dated in the early of 14th century. The Church of Agios Georgios is most known for its wooden statue of St. George – wearing the traditional greek skirt “foustanella” – dating back to the 13th century. This oversized historical and cultural value picture is about 3 meters tall and is considered miraculous (PiP5). According to tradition some nuns were trying to carry this sculpture with a stretcher from Konstantinoupolis. As they were passing by the place that the church is nowadays located the stretcher stopped moving against their willing. Then the nuns thought it was St. George’s desire to be there and they decided to built a church to honor his name. Every year thousands of believers visit the church during St. George’s celebration day to pray and stick their coin on the glyph. Once the coin sticks means that the believer has a strong faith and his/her prayers may come true.

Orraon (also Horraon or Horreum) was founded in the 4th century B.C. In 167 B.C. the settlement was destroyed by the Romans, but it was subsequently rebuilt and survived for a short period. In 37 B.C. the town had one hundred houses, twelve streets, and a graveyard. Orraon was abandoned by its people. Its inhabitants were forced to settle in Nikopolis , a nearby city founded by Augustus after his victory in the navel battle of Actium at the mouth of the Ambracian Gulf. In Orraon most of the houses are still standing, sometimes even two stories high and the street plan is still visible".The town had twelve narrow parallel streets, in the north and south direction, cross two wider streets. The settlement consisted of 100 houses, built of local limestone. The main parts that are visible today are the stone the houses were made of, window frames and door frames. The cistern (PiP5) was located near the main gate. Orraon is located quite remote and during our visit there we were totally alone. It was very pleasant to walk around among these old houses, surrounded by a colourful landscape with lots of wild flowers.

The church of Saint Demetrius (Agios Demetrios) is dating back to the year of 1570. It has been rebuilt with materilas from the royal palace of Philip II in Agaai, at the location of a Byzantine cemetery in the 16th century. The three-nave basilica is characterized by its lavish wall paintings made by a group of hagiographers from Lianotopi Kozani, the origin of famous hagiographers of that time. Shortly after its erection in 1591 a spacious narthex was added to the church. Rich interior decoration, with rare wall paintings, is added to the admirable architectural design of the structure and the refined construction. Half of the wall paintings were created by Nicholaos Zografos and “narrated” the life of Christ and Saint Demetrios, portrayed saints, prophets and martyrs of the Church, the Assumption of the Theotokos and the Platytera of Heaven. The rest of the wall paints, which belong to an unknown artist, depict the Last Judgment while among the figures of the triumphant and victorious stands Alexander the Great. This is a rare presentation of high aesthetics and great historical value. Some parts of the wooden iconostasis are preserved intact. The Church of Saint Demetrius, which is designated as a monument by UNESCO, remained closed and deserted for decades, until 2017 when its restoration and maintenance were approved. Nowadays the church is open to the public. The Church of Saint Demetrius is a real hidden gem. It is tucked away completely outside the little village of Palatitsia behind a cemetery. We were fortunately welcomed by a caretaker, who also opened the church and lit the lights.

The Papingo rock pools can be found a long the stream Rogovo. They are easy accessible along a path (PiP1), starting at a small parking place along the road between Megalo Papingo and Mikro Papingo. Soon the first rock pools - locals call them ovires - are visible. These fonts are actually cavities, which were created in the limestone rocks by the movement of the water of the Rogovo. The valley narrows and becomes a kind of gorge without a real trail, but with numerous pools, filled with crystal clear water. In summer locals often close artificial barriers (PiP4), creating ‘swimming pools’.

The castle of Parga dominates a rock peninsula on the Ioanian Sea. It was originally built in the 11th century by the inhabitants of Parga to protect their city from the pirates and the Turks, but it was partially destroyed by several invasions. In 1401 Parga became Venetian possession enjoying important privileges that contributed to its gradual commercial and economic development. The castle was rebuilt by the Venetians at the beginning of the 15th century, but was again destroyed by the Ottomans in 1571and reconstructed by the Venetians one year later after the naval battle of Lepanto. The end of Venetian rule at Parga and its occupation successively by the French, Russian-Turks and British was followed by the sale of the city to Ali Pasha of Ioannina in 1819 by Thomas Maitland, the British High Commissioner of the Ioanian islands. Parga caste has the shape of an irregular polygon. Its stout fortification wall encloses a hil on which large of landfill suitable for building were created around the edges. The defence was completed by eight towers outside the castle. The arched entrance gate is protected by a semicircular bastion. During the period of Ottoman occupation Ali Pasha built an interior fortification wall with a polygonal bastion inside the castle, enclosing the citadel, which is at higher level. A large building complex, bathhouses, cisterns and a mosque were erected in the citadel, also during the Ottoman period. These building interventions entailed the demolition of large parts of the earlier defences and of the town and changed the form of the castle. From the castle one has wonderful views towards Parga (PiP3) and Valtos beach (PiP4).

We were driving from Leonidio through the gorge of the river Dafnon, when after numerous bends suddenly the majestic Monastery of Panagia Elona appeared. It is situated on a kind of hanging balcony on a steep reddish coloured cliff of Mount Parnon at an altitude of 650 metres. The history of the monastery begins in the 14th century. Shepherds saw a light in an inaccessible part of the cliff. This light, according to the legend, emanated from an oil lamp lit in front of an icon of St. Panagia. The bishop commissioned two hermits from the area to settle at the site, where they then built a small monastery with two cells. The present monastery was built in the middle of the 17th century, but it looks considerably more modern; devastating raids and fires caused that entire parts of the monastery had to be rebuilt several times. Panagia Elona played an important role in Greek War of Independence of 1821, both with money and by gathering weapons and hiding the Greek independence fighters. At the beginning of 1900 the monastery was one of the richest monasteries of the Peloponnese. Since 1970 Panagia Elona is a nunnery; during our visit in 2017 just five nuns were still living there. The white buildings with their cells seem to be stuck against the multicoloured rock wall (PiP1). The current church was built in 1809 (PiP2). Outside it looks quite simple, but inside it is stunningly beautiful. We were welcomed by a very friendly monk, who turned out to be a kind of keeper for the elderly nuns. He showed us around and told a lot about the religious artworks, like the sculpted wood iconostasis (PiP3) and the several icons. Among them an icon of “Our Lady Elona” (PiP4), which is believed being Apostle Luke’s work (one of the 70 icons that he painted).

Platamon Castle is dating back to the middle Byzantine period (10th century AD). It is situated at the location of the ancient city of Heraclia. The name “Platamon” appears for the first time in an imperial order of 1198 but, most probably, there was already a Byzantine castle there, since the 10th century. Following the fall of Constantinople during the 4th Crusade in 1204, Lombardian crusaders took over the land and built a castle on top of the remains of the old structure. The castle functioned as a strategic lookout point over the passage between Macedonia and southern Greece. Despite their efforts to retain control of the castle, it wasn’t long before the Byzantines took it over again. In 1218, the Komnenos, a Byzantine noble family, established dominion over the castle. The Turks captured the castle in 1385 and paid much attention to its maintenance because they needed the castle to control the strategically important area. After a short break between 1425 and 1427, when the Venetians managed to conquer the castle, the Turks returned and stayed until the beginning of the 20th century. During World War II, in April 1941, a unit of New Zealanders tried to defend Platamon but were forced to leave after the bombardment of the castle by the Germans. The Castle of Platamon is located southeast of Mount Olympus near the village of Platamon. The landmark of the castle is the well-preserved octagonal tower with a height of 16 meters.

When hearing or reading the words Corinth Canal, almost everyone has in front of them the image of the straight canal with its steep, almost perpendicular walls (PiP4) and the bridges connecting the two banks high above the water. But at the western end of the canal close to Corinth it looks very different; no high cliffs and an almost flat landscape and a ‘sinking’ bridge, connecting Corinth/Poseidonia with Loutraki. The bridge - like the one at the other end of the canal near Isthmia - was constructed in 1988. The bridge lowers its deck 8 meters below water level, permitting waterborne traffic to use the waterway. We had to wait some time, because ships can only pass through the canal on a one-way system. The waiting was rewarded with a spectacular view of the subducting and rising bridge. After that we could cross the bridge on our way to Loutraki (PiP3).

We did read about the stunning frescoes in the Byzantine Church of Agios Nikolaos - 4 km from Liotrivi - and wanted to visit them. First of all it was quite a job to find this small village, because it was not very well signposted. After arriving in the picturesque village with just of couple old stone houses, we couldn’t miss the church with its beautiful architecture on the central square. Unfortunately the door of the church turned out to be closed. Although a couple of villagers tried to help, the door remained closed and we missed the frescoes.

Plaka - considered being the sea port of Leonidio - is one of those quaint picturesque seaside villages on the Peloponnese. Plaka has a little harbour with some (fishing) boats, a couple of small taverns, cafes and shops adjacent to the clear water and a pebbled beach. At least during our visit it looks if tourism had not spoiled this authentic fishing village.